Heading North

Two day trip up to Hamilton was longer and tougher than I'd anticipated. Weather and distance was against me. Ferry delayed by rough seas meant riding late at night, in the dark, through low cloud, up and down big mountains. Not pleasant. Before arriving late at hotel with no wifi - hence radio silence...

The next day required even more distance to be covered. Had I bitten off more than I could chew?

Fortunately, the formidable BMW took it and me in its stride - delivering me safely, if shattered, to Hamilton and to the next part of the adventure - meeting up with my son Oli and his wife Lauri (who graciously overlooked my complete exhaustion!)

So I guess that brings the biking bit of the trip to an end, and therefore the blog

In the meantime, Steve has been flown back to UK, bolted together again and now home getting some well deserved TLC

So sorry he couldn't complete the trip, missing out on such a fantastic experience and a load of banter along the way. It wasn't the same without you mate

Arthur's Pass

Breakfast with the East Java Harley Chapter. Delightful guys who charmed a local WI group also staying at the hotel

Despite low cloud all day, it remained dry. So disappointing photographs, but thankfully nice safe riding

This was the flip back across to Christchurch, completing the South Island circuit

Followed route known as Arthur's Pass - first used by Maori tribes crossing to the west coast to find pounamu (greenstone) Boy they must have really loved the stuff, as it was challenging enough by bike, let alone on foot and weighed down with their haul

Stopped at cafe on top and shared coffee with group of 'mature' British bikers travelling opposite direction, doing a circuit of airfields and vineyards (each to their own). They'd got soaked on way across, recommending getting waterproofs on. Somehow and happily, I avoided it

Finally got back to the hotel, to be greeted by Vaughn and a new bike. I've been upgraded to a big shiny BMW 1200. Looks huge, however Vaughn assures me it is the bisso - we'll see!

Gentle Readers

Many apologies to the thousands of you unable to comment on our blog

Unfortunately IT support (Steve) has just let me know that their appears to be  a malfunction with the software

Apologies again

The Coast Road

Woke to drizzly, overcast morning (clearly I shouldn't have jeered at the Royal party). Faced with reputably 'the best motorcycling in the world', thought I'd hang on for an hour, to see if weather cheered up

And it did, just enough to stay dry all day. If fact, as I sit and write this, the rain has just started thumping down. Perfect timing

Morning settled into, now what seems, a familiar routine. It easy to get blasé about the achingly beautiful landscapes and spine tingling ride. Today's added spice was the Tasman Sea, keeping me company most of the day. Powerful rollers crashing onto a white beach. In Britain, we expect some flotsam and jetsam. Here it is trees with complete root systems being washed up and left on the tide line. Can't emphasise enough just how colossal everything here is.

Demanding ride, diving back through rainforest and out again onto the coast road, eventually brought me to Hokitika. Joined local biking couple for coffee, who wanted to know more about the Triumph Tiger, as they were considering retiring from track racing, now they were in their fifties. Interestingly, both on their own racing machines and not a clean panel on either bike!

Hokitika is the centre of pounamu/greenstone carving - an ancient Maori art. One showroom shared fascinating stories behind the history of this work and yes, obviously presented a retail opportunity

Also tried Vodaphone NZ shop to improve internet connection by using local data SIM card. Sadly assistant couldn't sort out a workaround

By now I was itching to get back on the tarmac. And next section was just sublime. No real speed involved - just visor up, wind in face, wriggling around and diving into corners like a stabbed rat. (Tiddles, you may have lost your 2012 NY eve wiggling crown to the NZ coast road!)

All too quickly arrived at Punakaiki and the pancake rocks. Sadly tides all wrong for the blow holes to be blowing. However, would make a juicy rock hopping destination on a future kayaking trip and did return to my bike to find a new friend, busy pecking at my tyres...

Hotel location, right on the beach with room overlooking the sea. Window open and wonderful sounds of crashing waves, taking me back to Seaweed Cottage, Cornwall

Steve you are much missed - good luck with the op. You'll be dancing the fandango in no time...

The Ice Road

As there is no road immediately North out of Fiordland, the trip yesterday brought us inland, describing a big 'U'. So today's ride was all about getting back across onto the West coast, to head north. And what a beauty! Scorching hot day and clear blue skies - and this is NZ autumn

Not sure which courtier's taking responsibility for the filthy weather on the Royals NZ visit, imagine he's in the tower already

Regular pattern of wide valleys interrupted by stonking great mountains. In Milford, the fiord (it's not actually a Sound) and it's mountains are sharp and jagged, either hewn by glacier action or chopped by the axe of a mighty ancient god - depending on wether you're listening to a geologist or Maori chief. Up here the mountains look softer, more benign, wrapped up in their rainforest blankets

However, the rides up and down, equally as steep. Just time enough to recover with a breathtaking lake or river crossing - then down the gears to chase up the next one. Couldn't take many pictures today, because I couldn't take many pictures today. Too busy driving! Road also seemed to ride differently - much harder on the suspension (and me) Perhaps the substrate or method of construction varies across the country

Did jump off once to take in the Blue Pools walk, a world renown, must see highlight, in this wilderness region. Very beautiful

Strong smell of ozone suggested the coast was close - then suddenly the rainforest finally opened up to reveal the Tasman sea. Ride up the shoreline was sensational. The road eventually winding back inland to avoid the huge glaciers blocking our way. Staying tonight at Franz Joseph glacier. At 19km, the closest any glacier at this latitude, has advanced to the coast

From the snow capped mountain range ahead, looks like tomorrow's going to be another goodun!

Love you long time

Happy to be rolling back up the wonderful Milford Road again.  Practice making 'a little less' imperfect

Very cold, particularly in the deep shadows of the forest. Wet moss in the centre of the road to be avoided. Finally break free of the chill, emerging into liquid sunshine and watery vistas. Mile after mile, all the way back to Queenstown, wonderful

And strangely enhanced by experience of being stuck behind a police car. Weird how much more you observe when cranked back a little

Hitting Queenstown, GPS route cuts through to the back of the town. Suddenly a climb is on, up to the Crown Range. This is big country... and I mean BIG. The pass is high at 1000m - and adding frisson to the moment, just as I was beginning to groove 2nd gear for the climbing hairpins - they decided to resurface the road. Yep, corner itself was sealed, while  exit covered with loose gravel!!! Thank god there's so little traffic, as had to stand bike up and 'goosey' through the next half dozen turns. Then, can you imagine the ignominy, when I checked my mirrors, to discover a 4x4 on my tail! Embarrassment/ego meant he wasn't there for long...

View from the top. If you take the trouble to click on the picture and zoom in, you'll see this place is vast! The climb eventually flattened out at Cardrona providing the perfect excuse for a late lunch at picture perfect historic NZ pub (I'm guessing I've probably got shirts older than this)

All that was then left to do, was a gentle roll into Wanaka, heart of NZ skiing country. And my immediate thought was, if you had freedom to live anywhere in the world....

It's been a long day in the saddle and though tired, has brought both excitement for me and welcome relief to my aching feet!

Fauna and Flora

Day started well within my comfort zone, a dawn kayak trip down Milford Sound. Within minutes our tiny flotilla had been all but consumed by the leviathan landscape. Perhaps it was our lack of significance that afforded the opportunity to get up close and personal with the local aquatic life - both dolphin and seals

The photos might have been better, but it took a while to get Mel C, in the front of my double kayak, out of shot

Jimmy, our leader, reckoned we'd struck gold - with beautiful weather and a competent group, all of whom were strong paddlers (we were amongst the very few to complete the 20km trip)

During the paddle Jimmy kept raving about a local high walk - Gertrude's Saddle, being the best in NZ - so I thought...why not? It also gave me the excuse to ride a way back up the fantastic Milford road

Left bike in gravel car park, at base of mountain, where the walk started. Wonderful approach, striding through dense rainforest and exotic flowers - at this point was feeling a little like Indiana Jones. Sadly, the feeling didn't last. In fact, the reality was, the climb beat me

Both equipment and operator failure. My kayaking shoes struggled to provide any meaningful grip and I lost confidence about 30mins from the 1500m summit. In the middle of nowhere, on my own and with clouds descending rapidly, I decided to descend rapidly too. Right choice, my feet absolutely shredded by the time I got back to the bike

Given the trip's casualty count, beaten but not broken, was a reasonable outcome

Back in the UK

Looks like Graham is enjoying himself enough for two of us so Steve has  popped back home for a bit of Rest and Repair. 

32 hours of Emirates Business Class, lounges and wheelchair transfers got me safely to Gatwick. A taxi to the John Radcliffe Hospital A&E and the next chapter in Dr Deefor's bike related medical history begins.

Enjoy the rest of the trip Gray!

Proper Kippered

Bikers rate the road out to Milford Sound as one of the top rides in the world - and it didn't disappoint. Steve and I grabbed a chunk of Pacific Highway #1 rated 'the best' when we did Route 66 - and this was probably better.  Couple of factors also helped. On a bike that goes round corners and no sea mist, so not having to solely rely on smell of kelp to determine which side was the ocean

Day started in similar fashion to previous mornings, cooler and with road coiling snakelike around Lake Te Anau. Then, just as the sun was breaking free of the clouds, road plunged like a switchback into thick woods. Just when I'd settled myself into tight turns, lower gears and counter steering, road veers to the west climbing all the way to its high point at Homer Tunnel.

They are currently resurfacing steep descent inside and I'll remember to stow my dark glasses before entering tunnel on the way back. Not my cleverest moment negotiating potholes, removing specs and then wondering which hand to hold them in. Would I need clutch or brakes when I reached daylight? Both was obviously the answer!

Milford Sound is NZ most famous visitor attraction - and on the boat trip I took earlier down the Sound, I easily see why, isolated and breathtakingly beautiful. Everything within it is dwarfed by its grandeur

To make myself feel totally insignificant, tomorrow I'm out for a more intimate experience with this place Rudyard Kipling called the Eighth Wonder of the World, a dawn sea kayak trip, to not only experience the Sound close up but get a bit of exercise after all those road miles.

In the meantime enjoying staying in wonderful cabin with views of towering mountains all the way down to a babbling stream next to my terrace. Bliss

Sound of Silence

Wonderful Milford Sound for next two days

Woeful the internet coverage

If I can get blog out, I will. If not, I'll connect again in a couple of days

Brightening up for some...

Heavy rain overnight required a well wrapped start. Low cloud and mist created an oppressive canopy while cautiously circling around Lake Wakatipu. A reviving cuppa at 5 Rivers Cafe seemed to work wonders for the sun too. Eventually clouds burn off to reveal beautiful agricultural landscape spreading far to the North and South. In contrast to vast planted fields, trees in their autumn plumage provided their own spectacle. If only I knew what they all were (Susie B/Terry help!)
Further on farmers had been busy again, this time thousands of sheep, looking sheepish in their newly shawn coats, scattered the fields.
Arrived at Te Anau in good time to meet tonight's host George. Fascinating guy - ex Formula 2/UK racer of 'tin tops', as he described (Aston Martins in reality). Now he's back home reinstalling old stuff in the community, including the B&B itself (an old convent moved few hundred miles up the road), 1930s gentleman's yacht on the lake and a couple of aircraft of similar vintage.
Just enjoyed beautifully shot film 'Fiordland' at local cinema. Featuring the gasping beauty of the worlds largest heritage site, here in NZ (who knew?!) combined with camera/editing from a slick crew with skills honed on Jackson productions. Very impressive.
Quick pizza then ride back to enjoy free internet/bar at  B&B - just as well daylight saving starts here tonight!
Still no word from Steve on his revised travel plans. Real tough luck :-(

Meanwhile back at base....

Steve tries to look pleased that he is lying in bed instead of cruising the countryside. 

Eye of the Tiger

Huge sadness that Steve and his Beemer took a tumble, however the trip goes on. Constrained by iphone keyboard and NZ scratch card wifi access I'll attempt to keep the blog 'a rollin along'. Riding the Triumph Tiger away from Christchurch and my best buddy was a mixture of emotions. Slowly the calm of the agricultural landscape and open vistas provided some context. Breaking at Geraldine for late lunch changed everything. I was now in Mackenzie country. Supposedly descended from the Mackenzie clan, I felt an uncanny connection. It is big and very beautiful. Long sweeping curves clinging to its undulating contours. Plenty of opportunity for kicking through the cogs. Finally arrived at Lake Tekapo. And what a contrast. Earlier I walked along its beautiful shoreline and now, with no light pollution, there is a wonderful tranquility sitting under the star studded night sky. Goodnight Steve - so sorry you're hearing this second hand.

++++++STOP PRESS++++++++++

View from Ward18. Not quite the same but NZ hospitality is grand.

Breaking News

Well the curse of the Sourhern Hemisphere has struck again. Last time it was a wee Argentine doggie and a dislocated right knee. This time a deep gravel trap caught me off guard and dropped an F800 on my left ankle.

Scraped off the road by a very kind pair of Americans (thanks John and Serena) and dropped off at Ashburton Hospital, the X-RAY showed a break to both Tibia and Fibia. Screws and metal work required.

Ambulance ride to Christchurch Hospital presented two options. Fly home now and get an op in the UK or wait 5 days for the swelling to go down then a few more post-op before flying. I'm going for the early return. AXA travel insurance are on the case!

Meantime Graham sorted out the stuffed bike and got all my gear to the hospital. Thanks mate! He has rejoined the itinerary a day behind but bit should all catch up in a day or so.

The ride today to Lake Tekapo sounded good as does the cold beer at the end. On the bright side NZ NHS food is not bad and the staff are lovely.

Nice bike mate.....

They'd run out of BMWs so

We had to take the next best thing.

Day 1 - Christchurch to Edoras

The alarm call at 7:30 was from Wayne at Paradise Tours to remind us to meet him at 9:00 for the pick up. There were the bikes parked outside the local bike dealership and there too was Wayne. Bags of kiwi bon homie and "no worries". Before we knew it Wayne had suggested a morning run out to Akaroa. A beautiful seaside resort a couple of hours in the opposite direction to where we were headed. Wayne led the way through the back streets of Christchurch and out on to the empty roads. Any excuse for a ride out eh Wayne.

And what roads, fast straights, sweeping constant radius bends, each with a recommended speed on the chevrons so you could judge it right. Then peeling off from the coastal flats and up on switchbacks over a steep ridge and back down into a fjord with a small town nestling by the water. Akaroa, a little piece of paradise with a good tea room.

It wasn't that tough to turn around in the main square and ride back the way we had come so that we passed our original departure spot about lunchtime and then on west into agricultural country. Acre of silage, beef, sheep, alpaca etc. Small towns full of bakeries, agricultural supplies and art galleries. Delightful.

Then a petrol stop and a sharp right out into the interior. the road quickly turned to gravel and things got loosey-goosey for a bit. But around us the vast U shaped valley opened out with a wide braided river flowing through the gravel beds at the bottom until after 20km we arrived at Mt Potts Station. A lovely little lodge on an old cattle station. A heli-ski base in the winter, in the summer it caters for trackers and people like us who want to visit Edoras.

Christchurch

Flattened by an earthquake in 2011, Christchurch is only now getting back on its feet. Most of the centre has been levelled but not rebuilt. A cluster of arty shops and cafes fit neatly into a stack of  shipping containers. A new cathedral, made out of cardboard, towers over the desolation giving a Scandinavian feel. The botanical garden and city museum have a wide remit.

Although Christchurch maybe recovering both Steve and Graham weren't. Jet lag kicking in meant all a bit of a struggle. Rehydration back at hotel gave only temporary reprieve .... Food and early night is the plan.

And they're Off...

Boarding one of these A380 double decker stakes a while. they are BIG. Here on the lower deck it feels like a wide Jumbo but spacious like a 777. Strange to think there's another deck above us the same. 

Sartorial Elegance

Despite minimal kit - remember your bow tie.  An Englishman is prepared for all occasions

Kit-tastic - Deefor goes minimalist

For China I took everything including a (folding) kitchen sink. Result was two enormous Metal Mule panniers chock full and the heaviest bike of the group.

So for New Zealand, I am going the other way. What is the least amount of gear you can take and still be ready for most eventualities?

To start with, we'll ditch the tool kit and spares. They aren't our bikes and we won't be too far from help. No camping kit obviously, a well stocked credit card and pre-booked accommodation sees to that. Spare water and petrol containers - let's trust to regular garages. April in NZ looks quite pleasant so the cold weather gear - heated jacket, fleece lined trousers, merino long johns etc can all stay behind. 

Minimal medical kit, a few toiletries, a set of bike clothes and one of civvies to travel in. Some electronics for photos, blogging and not getting lost. Should be all I need. Let's see if I can do it in two ortleibs...

Aperitif

Couldn't wait for the main course - so Steve and I went off for a little taster yesterday
Many thanks to TrailWorld, Hertfordshire www.trailworld.co.uk for looking after us - what a blast!

Bit of background...

For me there is added excitement on this trip. Not only am I going to be riding around the awesome South Island with my best mate, I then go and visit my son Oliver and Lauri, his beautiful new bride, in Hamilton on the North Island

Gonna need some wheels...

    

We need a couple of bikes that will make 200+ miles a day, handle gravel and tarmac and look the billy bob. It would be dull to use a 1200GS again and we don't need the range or the load carrying on this trip. It'd be fun to try a couple of different models for comparison. 

So Paradise have got us a BMW F800 GS and a Triumph Tiger 800. Should be fun. Hope the fuel pump lasts on the Beemer!

Paradise Prebooked

Like most of our trips planning consists of: 

1. Looks amazing

2. Go to the pub with a map to get a list of must see locations

3. Find someone else to organise the details

4. Get really excited

In this case the "must see" locations are a couple of the top LOTR (Lord Of The Rings) locations and Milford Sound. A quick Google for bike hire threw up 3 or 4 companies offering tours of South Island. Email exchanges gave us a good feel for one of them. They had the bikes we wanted and could organise a route. Best of all they were friendly, helpful. 

And called Paradise Tours (http://www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz)

Deposit paid, flights booked and we're ready to roll.

Kia ora

No, not the popular orange-style drink you bought in the cinemas of your youth. It means hello in Maori.

Kia ora and haere mai (welcome) to the fifth blog in the round-the-world-in-bite-sized-chunks series.

Where are you off to this time then? Graham and Deefor are flying to the other side of the world to visit the land of the long white cloud. The land of fjords, glaciers and Lord of the Rings. Maori culture, world class sailing and the awesome All Blacks. But best of all the setting for some of the greatest motorcycling roads on the planet.  New Zealand.

Graham and Deefor off on a two week bike trip, somewhere with glaciers? Haven't we heard that before. Yup, it's a bit like "Three men go to Iceland" (http://threemengotoiceland.blogspot.co.uk/) with a bit of "100 Years of nonsense" (http://route66.omega-prime.co.uk/) thrown in.

Essentially a bit more nonsense. Or "Kutukutu ahi" as they say in those parts.


Kutukutu ahi: Noun.Delirium, raving, nonsense, meaningless talk, incessant grumbling, harping on a subject, drivel, gibberish, waffle